Cabo Verde, an archipelago off the coast of West Africa, offers a rich mix of vibrant culture, stunning landscapes, and unforgettable experiences. If you’re wondering, “Is Cabo Verde worth visiting?”, the answer is a resounding yes. Here’s a comprehensive guide based on our trip there to help you explore Cape Verde islands, discover the best activities, and craft the perfect itinerary.

Santiago: Heart of culture and history

Santiago is the largest island in Cabo Verde and home to the nation’s capital, Praia. The bustling Plateau district is the city’s beating heart, where you’ll find historical landmarks like the Royal Palace, lively municipal markets run by local women mostly, and street vendors selling everything from snacks to handcrafted goods. For a taste of local cuisine, head to Caza Katxupa for traditional dishes or Quintal da Música for dining with live music. Or if you want to follow the locals, head to Sunset which is open until 12 a.m. and enjoy the tasties sandwiches (vegetarian and vegan options also available)

Things to do in Praia

• Kabra Kanela Beach: The best beach in Praia, ideal for a relaxing day by the ocean.
• Palmarejo Beach Promenade: A recreational area that’s charming despite its slightly run-down state. We visited it even twice, and the views are nice even with the fog.
• Serra Malagueta National Park: Just a short trip from Praia, this park is perfect for nature lovers. There are tours that can take you there, or you can venture on your own.

Stay: Casa da Mizi on Plateau and Casa Alcindo in San Antonio   

Eat: Like a local at Sunset (in Oya Park, open until 12 a.m., tasty burgers – vegetarian and vegan, too) or Caza Katxupa for traditional dishes. Restaurante Baia Verde next to Praia Tarrafal.

Music: Quintal da Música (with a bit of a touristy vibe), or follow the music on Plateau and it will bring you to a bar/restaurant or open area where you can enjoy!

Our full-day tour of Santiago island

Our full-day tour of Santiago, guided by the ever-enthusiastic Maria and a team of interns from Santo AntCabo Verde Santiagoão island, was a journey through the island’s vibrant culture and captivating landscapes. The day started with a visit to Mama Luisa’s home, where we joined her in preparing cuscuz—a traditional cake made with corn flour, potato flakes, and sugar—and fidjos, delicious banana fritters. Sharing this home-cooked meal gave us a taste of authentic Cape Verdean cuisine and the warmth of local hospitality. Next, we stopped in Assomada, a terraced town known for its lively market selling everything from fresh produce to handcrafted goods and its deep ties to the Cape Verdean diaspora. It is usually open on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

We then ventured into Serra Malagueta National Park, but a thick fog obscured the epic views the park is known for. Still, the mist added a mystical charm to the landscape. Tarrafal Beach was the next highlight—a serene stretch of brown sand and blue water. Despite the fog, its peaceful atmosphere was magical. Lunch was an event in itself: fresh fish served by the beach, where fishermen argued loudly and passionately, while fisherwomen asserted their dominance with fiery exchanges. 

We also visited the Rabelados community, known for their unique religious beliefs, thatched homes, and striking art, including depictions of Black Jesus. Along the way, we paused near banana plantations to enjoy fresh coconuts. Throughout the tour, we learned fascinating insights about Cabo Verdean life, such as the slow process of building homes over years, the cultural influences of Portugal, Brazil, and Africa, and the aspirations of locals, including the dream of working at the U.S. embassy for interest-free loans. This day was a rich blend of history, tradition, and connection, capturing the soul of Santiago.

Here is the link to the tour.  

A half day trip to Cidade Velha

Our visit to Cidade Velha, the historic heart of Santiago, was a perfect blend of culture, charm, and relaxation. The adventure began in the suburbs of Praia, where we tried waving down a taxi and, much to our delight, were successful in finding one to take us to this iconic town. The weather was sunny and fog-less for the first time since we arrived. It invited us as we wandered through Cidade Velha’s cobblestone streets to capture the town’s timeless beauty with our drone.

A highlight was walking down the iconic Rue de Banana, a UNESCO-listed street lined with colorful stone houses that exude colonial-era charm. On the beach, children like Joao and his friends played joyfully in the sand, adding a vibrant, local touch to the tranquil seaside atmosphere. For lunch, we stopped at Restaurant Batuku, an affordable spot offering delicious Cape Verdean cuisine in a cozy, welcoming green garden setting. The sun-drenched day concluded with us kindly refusing to the many souvenir merchants and with a scenic aluguer ride back, leaving us with lasting memories of Cidade Velha’s rich history and serene beauty and a desire to come back and stay there one day.

Praia like locals (a.k.a the extended stay)

Our failed attempt to visit Fogo island due to bad weather resulted in a longer stay on Santiago, allowing us to delve beyond the usual tourist attractions. We explored random neighborhoods, connected with locals on the street, and observed “regular” life happening. Evening strolls in Praia’s quieter neighborhoods revealed a side of the city less seen by tourists, with children playing in the streets and impromptu music sessions bringing life to every corner. We also managed to indulge in tasty pancakes and organic meals as our endeavors while waiting to see which day we’ll be able to fly out of Santiago.

Sao Vicente: Cabo Verde’s cultural hub

Sao Vicente, and its main city Mindelo, is the cultural epicenter of Cabo Verde. Known for its vibrant music scene and artistic spirit, this island is a must-visit for culture enthusiasts. The island is also the birthplace of Cesária Évora, the “Barefoot Diva,” whose soulful morna songs have captivated audiences worldwide.

Things to do in Mindelo, Sao Vicente island

• Mindelo city tour: Explore colonial architecture, colorful markets, and local cafes.
• Beach: Visit Laginha Beach, a favorite among locals and tourists alike.
• Cultural events: If you can time your visit to coincide with the Mindelo Carnival, you’ll witness lively celebration of music and dance. Or just go to many of the music bars and restaurants to do the same. Really, just being in Mindelo is already a cultural event.

Stay: Apartamentos Beira Mar, withing short walking distance to Laginha Beach  

Eat: Casa Cafe Mindelo, Le Metalo, Taverna Sao Vicente – all in Mindelo, and the Hamburger in Calhau

Music: everywhere in Mindelo!

Immersing in music on Sao Vicente

Our afternoon and evening in Mindelo became a celebration of Cape Verdean music and culture, immersing us in the island’s vibrant rhythms and melodies. It began with lunch in a casual eatery where we were treated to the soundcheck for an upcoming concert by Cape Verdean singer Denis Graça. As his voice soared through the venue with the catchy refrain “já chega,” it became a spontaneous soundtrack to our meal. Then we went to the beach where we were treated to the musical choice of the people nearby. 

Later, we headed to Le Metalo, a cozy restaurant with a small stage, where alumni from a local secondary school choir performed live. Their harmonious blend of Christmas carols and popular songs filled the air, creating a festive and heartwarming atmosphere. The night concluded at Bar Livraria Nho Djana, where Sofia, a talented singer, captivated the audience with her unplugged guitar performances. Her soulful renditions of pop hits and opera classics created an intimate and unforgettable musical experience, embodying the rich artistic spirit of São Vicente.

The best part was that it’s so easy to be immersed in music in Mindelo. It comes out of everywhere, it’s everywhere, and you don’t need to do anything special to be exposed to it. It is in the air, always!

Tours in and from Mindelo

• A walking tour of Mindelo provides an in-depth look at the island’s cultural heritage. Highlights include the colorful fish market, the replica of Lisbon’s Belem Tower, and the bustling Praça Nova. 
• You can also take a day trip to Monte Verde, the island’s highest peak, for breathtaking views of the surrounding islands and Mindelo’s harbor. 
• For music lovers, a guided evening tour introduces you to the vibrant nightlife, with stops at bars featuring live morna and coladeira performances. 

All of these tours you can do on your own pace and terms, just like we did.

Swimming with turtles in São Pedro

Our day trip to São Pedro began with a lively visit to an African market to find an aluguer (shared taxi). The air was filled with the fresh aromas of mint and cilantro as we navigated the bustling stalls. A guy called Gami Lopes found us and offered to be our guide for the turtle experience. For €20 per person, he arranged everything. Upon arriving in São Pedro, a tranquil fishing village that felt safer and more laid-back than Mindelo, we were met by our boat crew. Young boys from the village enthusiastically pushed our boat into the water, and after a short sail of about 200 meters, we reached the area where the turtles swam.

The experience was unforgettable. The turtles, some of them enormous, swam gracefully around us. Their calm presence made the encounter feel magical as they occasionally brushed past us. With the reassuring “Tranquila!” coming from the boys on the boat, we captured amazing photos and videos while admiring their natural beauty. Afterward, we relaxed with a refreshing juice at the beach’s only bar, soaking in the stunning views of São Pedro’s rugged coastline. The village has a bit of an “end of the world” vibe in a positive vibe, peaceful and remote, with its simple charm complemented by the sight of turtles bred locally from South African stock. The journey back to Mindelo in the aluguer revealed spectacular scenery, leaving us in awe of São Vicente’s beauty.

A memorable Christmas Eve on São Vicente

Christmas Eve in São Vicente was a mix of adventure and cultural immersion. After arriving back in Mindelo, we searched for an ATM and managed to secure the last aluguer to Calhau with only us as passengers. This remote village, set against a backdrop of desert-like landscapes and ancient volcanoes, felt even farther removed from the world. Calhau offered striking views of rough seas and small, unexpected oases, creating a surreal and magical atmosphere. We stopped at the only open restaurant, Hamburg, where we enjoyed an unexpected treat: the best bolacha (ice cream) we’d had in Cabo Verde.

Returning to Mindelo just in time for Christmas Eve proved to be another adventure. We caught the last aluguer in that direction, a bus that stopped mid-journey for the driver to clean its dusty front glass while the sun set over the island. Passengers remained relaxed and self-organized, securing their seats and luggage without a hint of stress. Back in the capital, the festive atmosphere was a mix of excitement and chaos. With no taxis available and restaurants closing early, the streets were filled with intoxicated individuals, shouting and asking for things. While chaotic, the scene was an authentic glimpse into São Vicente’s vibrant and unpredictable holiday spirit, a night we’ll never forget.

Boa Vista: serenity and natural beauty

Boa Vista is a haven for those seeking tranquility and unspoiled nature. Its vast sandy beaches and rolling dunes create a unique desert-island atmosphere. The island is quieter than Sal although one of the more touristy ones, but still it makes for perfect relaxation and exploration.

Things to do on Boa Vista island

• Sal Rei – the charming capital town of the island, with quieter areas to stay and a bustling center. Sal Rei is ready to entertain you with live music every night, you just need to find which place is hosting it by asking around or asking at the place where you stay. 
• Viana Desert: This mini-Sahara offers stunning landscapes for hiking and photography.
• Cabo Santa Maria Shipwreck: A hauntingly beautiful shipwreck that’s a must-see.
• Estoril Beach – a walk away from Sal Rei, long enough to offer amazing walks, swimming, snorkeling, water sports, beach bars, free areas, and amazing sunsets!

Stay: We stayed in B&B Salinas in the capital Sal Rei, close to the salinas and in a more quieter part than the center itself. The staff was welcoming and helpful, and we had a great value for money breakfast included. 

Eat: A favorite place to eat becomes the Bowla Vista – with its healthy, green, tasty and no stress dishes. We went there three times for 2 days, which should say enough.

Music: We visited a live performance and had dinner at the Sodade Cultural House, which is like a museum itself. We headed for an ice cream and witnessed another musical performance, this time with different locals taking the microphone, lots of dancing and cuba libres around.

Exploring Boa Vista on a half-day jeep tour

Our half-day jeep tour around Boa Vista which turned out to be a private tour guided by the ever-enthusiastic Bernardo, who introduced us to the island’s diverse landscapes and hidden gems. The adventure began at Praia de Chaves, a vast, almost untouched beach framed by rolling sand dunes. Here, we tried sandboarding, racing down the slopes while taking in the majestic ocean views. Next, we visited Morro d’Areia, where we were lucky enough to spot turtles swimming gracefully near the rocky outcrops—a serene moment that showed us Boa Vista’s rich marine life.

Continuing our tour, we arrived at Praia Varandinha, a mystical place with rugged caves, dramatic rock formations, and fine sand that seemed tailor-made for surfers and adventurers exploring the caves. The highlight of the day was Praia de Santa Monica, an 18-kilometer-long stretch of pristine, empty beach that felt like a world away. We stopped at Boca Beach, where a charming beach bar provided a refreshing break. On the way back, we explored the tranquil village oasis of Rabil before heading to the Viana Desert. Its Sahara-like dunes were a surreal sight, and we were even approached by art merchants on the dunes offering their handmade creations as unique souvenirs. This tour captured the raw beauty and untouched charm of Boa Vista, leaving us in awe of its landscapes and vibrant culture.

Sal: beaches and excursions

Sal is a desert island, one of the most popular islands in Cabo Verde, attracting visitors with its stunning beaches and vibrant tourism scene. Santa Maria Beach is the crown jewel, offering soft sands and clear turquoise waters that are perfect for sunbathing, swimming, and water sports. If you don’t mind being amidst hundreds of people, of course.

There are two parts of Sal that we could easily observe – the touristy Sal with shops, bars, infinity pools, the beach and the real Sal – always under construction, dusty, with water shortages, and poverty looking behind every corner. We checked into an apartment in the real Sal, in Santa Maria, bordering the touristy part and started exploring while trying to find enjoyable things in this town which felt like the most touristy spot in Cabo Verde. 

Things to do on Sal island

• Pedra de Lume salt mines: Explore the historic salt mines and float in the salt-rich waters.
• Santa Maria pier: A lively spot where fishermen unload their catch and locals sell handmade crafts. It can ger pretty busy, as also the main streets of Santa Maria itself.
• Kite surfing: Sal is a global hotspot for kitesurfing, thanks to its consistent winds. We didn’t try it but the views of tens of kites in the sea were simply magical!

Stay: This studio that will give a glimpse on life in Santa Maria beyond the touristic areas.  

Eat: Il Faro and Pizzeria La Pizza, we really enjoyed their Italian food and atmosphere.

Music: Live performances of African and international music and dance happen in many restaurants and on the streets, attracting not only restaurant guests but also many passersby.

Discovering Sal on a day tour

Our group tour of Sal with BV Country Tours was a day filled with fascinating stops and unforgettable experiences, offering a deep dive into the island’s history, natural wonders, and local culture. The journey began in Murdeira, where we learned about the history of Cabo Verde and Sal while admiring the tranquil seaside scenery. We then visited the charming fishing village of Palmeira, where locals showcased their way of life alongside stalls selling handmade souvenirs. At the Blue Eye (Olho Azul), we witnessed and even dipped our toes in the mesmerizing natural pools, where the crashing waves created breathtaking splashes and revealed a vivid blue hue when sunlight hit just right. The desert mirage nearby was a surreal sight, tricking our eyes into seeing what wasn’t there—an optical illusion that left us all amazed.

For lunch, we stopped at Mama Elsa’s place, where we experienced the renowned Cape Verdean morabeza—a blend of warm hospitality, friendliness, and relaxed charm. The meal was hearty, delicious, and plentiful, making it a highlight of the day. Afterward, we visited Shark Bay, where we waded into the shallow waters with special shoes to observe baby lemon sharks gliding gracefully around us—a thrilling encounter with Sal’s marine life. The tour ended at the Salinas de Pedra de Lume, where we floated effortlessly in pools with 30% salt content, a therapeutic and surreal experience. This day tour of Sal was a perfect mix of adventure, learning, and cultural immersion, leaving us with lasting memories of the island’s unique offerings.

Here’s the link to this tour.  

Getting around Cabo Verde

Getting around Cabo Verde can be an adventure in itself. Inter-island flights are the most convenient option for travelers, offering quick and efficient connections between the islands. We used BestFly Cabo Verde (sometimes operated by Amelia Airlines) and Cabo Verde Airlines during our trip, and while flights were generally smooth, it’s essential to account for potential delays or weather disruptions. Santiago is the hub airport which means that often you need to arrive at Santiago airport first and then fly to your other destination which makes for more unpredictability and delays of consequent flights. We noticed that the airport in Santiago was quite understaffed so sometimes there were delays because the same team of people had to serve more than 1 flight at the same time.

Ferries are another option for inter-island travel, especially for those on a budget or having more time on their hands. However, they tend to be less reliable, with limited schedules and possible cancellations due to rough seas. For shorter distances, ferries can be an enjoyable way to experience the Atlantic waters. Ferries should be booked well in advance, especially in holiday seasons. We didn’t manage to visit smaller nearby islands because it was all booked.

On the islands themselves, taxis and alugueres (shared minibuses) are the primary modes of transportation. In some cases, renting a car might be worth considering if you want to explore at your own pace, particularly on islands like Santiago and Boa Vista.

Our two-week Cabo Verde itinerary

Our two-week itinerary allowed us to experience the diversity of Cabo Verde, visiting 4 islands (out of 5 planned) as follows:

• Days 1-5: Arrive in Santiago, explore Praia and its surroundings, and enjoy an extended stay to delve into the local lifestyle. Take a full-day tour around the island, visit Cidade Velha, and enjoy spontaneous cultural experiences.
• Days 6-8: Fly to Sao Vicente. Immerse yourself in Mindelo’s cultural scene, snorkel with turtles in Sao Pedro, and relax at Laginha Beach.
• Days 9-11: Travel to Boa Vista for its serene landscapes. Explore the lovely sandy beaches of Praia Estoril, Praia Varandinha, Praia de Santa Monica, and more, and observe marine life or visit the in-island Viana Desert.
• Days 12-14: Conclude the trip on Sal, enjoying its beaches, natural rock pools, salt mines, and Shark Bay before heading home.

Our most memorable moments

If we had to describe Cabo Verde with just one word, this word would definitely be music! Don’t leave the islands without listening to traditional (like morna, funana, batuque, tabanka, coladeira, cola) and modern styles and artists, and you’ll have many chances for that!

It was very hard to choose just a few as we were pretty much always in a memorable experience. Anyway, here are a few:

• Cooking traditional dishes with Mama Luisa on Santiago island.
• Immersing in live music in Mindelo, Sao Vicente.
• Snorkeling with sea turtles in Sao Pedro, Sao Vicente.
• Exploring the enormous sand dunes with majestic ocean views of Praia Chaves on Boa Vista.
• Floating in the Pedra de Lume salt crater and walking among baby lemon sharks on Sal.
• Experiencing the warmth and resilience of the Cabo Verdean people.
• Listening to Cesária Évora’s timeless morna all around the islands, connecting deeply with Cabo Verde’s soul through its talented musicians.

Cape Verde backpacking tips

Backpacking through Cabo Verde is an adventure filled with diverse experiences. Here are some tips:

• Transportation: Inter-island flights are the most convenient but can be costly. Ferries are a budget-friendly alternative, though less reliable. Be sure to check schedules in advance and remain flexible.
• Local cuisine: Don’t miss trying cachupa, the national dish, and other delicacies like cuscuz and fidjos (banana fritters). Cooking classes, like the one we took on Santiago, are a fantastic way to immerse yourself in local flavors.
• Language: While Portuguese is the official language, Creole is widely spoken. Learning a few phrases can enhance your experience, though English is well understood in tourist areas.
• Weather awareness: Always keep an eye on weather forecasts, as bad weather can disrupt travel plans, especially inter-island flights.
• Community connections: Take time to engage with locals. Our extended stay on Santiago offered us a deeper connection with the island’s people, showcasing the warmth and resilience of Cabo Verdean culture.

Sodade, morabeza, and the richness of Cabo Verde’s culture

Cabo Verde is more than its stunning landscapes; it’s a place deeply rooted in sodade—a longing and nostalgia beautifully expressed in its music—and morabeza, the unique Cabo Verdean hospitality. Cesária Évora’s haunting morna songs encapsulate this emotion, offering a glimpse into the islanders’ soulful connection to their homeland. These islands are a pallet of culture, history, and natural beauty that finds its home in the hearts of its visitors. From soulful melodies to vibrant markets and welcoming locals, Cabo Verde promises a journey of connection and discovery that you’ll treasure forever.

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