Our trip to Chios island – sun, sea, and mastic magic

Some trips you plan months ahead, reading every review and calculating every route. Others, you just know are going to be unforgettable the moment you climb down the small aircraft stairs. Chios was exactly that. An island of wild beaches, medieval villages, fragrant mastic trees, and a food scene that makes you question why you ever eat anywhere else in Greece. We went in for a few days of sunshine and culture and came back with our hearts full, our skin a little tanned, and our phones overflowing with drone footage.

Chios Island mastic drops on a tree

Places to Visit in Chios

Chios Town

The island’s lively capital is where modern Greek life hums against a backdrop of history. Cobbled streets lead to cafés spilling onto squares, boutique shops sit alongside traditional bakeries, and the harbor is perfect for an evening stroll as the sun says its last goodbye to the crawling ferries and boats.

Chios Island Chios Town windmills

Glaroi Beach

Just a short drive from Chios Town, this beach is a local favorite for its crystal-clear waters and laid-back vibe. It’s the kind of place where you can lose track of time between swims, sunbathing, and views towards the massive rocks behind.

There’s a small free area under the shade of a few trees. We recommend bringing water shoes as it’s one of the pebbled beaches, even though there’s also some sand.

Nagos Beach

Framed by lush greenery and backed by tavernas, Nagos is a picturesque stop for a refreshing dip. Even a short visit rewards you with postcard-worthy views and a taste of Chios’ quieter side.

Chios Island Nagos

Ampelos and Marmara

A winding drive leads to Ampelos, a fishing village with a raw, unpolished charm. When our rental car couldn’t take it on the dirt road anymore, we sent the drone to reveal the amazing views of the secluded Ampelos beach.

Marmara, nearby, is best admired from above – especially if you have a drone or stop nearby the sailing club to capture the sailboats gently swaying in turquoise waters.

Pitios

Tucked away in the northern part of Chios, Pitios is the kind of village that makes you slow down the moment you arrive. Narrow stone streets wind past old houses draped in bougainvillea, and the central square comes alive at night when locals and visitors gather for music, food, dance, and conversation. 

For us, Pitios wasn’t just a stop on the map – it was an experience. We caught open-air concerts and “The Mountain Festival” under the stars, shared pasta made the traditional way at Ο Καφενές του Γιώργη, and felt like we had stumbled into a community celebration rather than a tourist attraction. It’s one of those places that makes you think: this is what Chios summers are really about.

Komi Beach

This long, sandy stretch is a summer magnet for both locals and visitors. It’s perfect for a full beach day, with plenty of spots to grab a drink or a meal just steps from the sea.

As it’s sandy and doesn’t get deep for quite some time, the beach attracts many families, too. If you want a relaxing, quiet time with no music, laughter, or chatting around, head to another beach.

Chios Island Komi Beach

Emporios and Mavri Volia Beach

Emporios is a peaceful bay great for snorkeling, while Mavri Volia stands out with its dramatic black pebbles, the result of ancient volcanic activity. The contrast of dark stones against the bright Aegean blue is unforgettable.

Parking near Mavri Volia was impossible, but we did find a place near Emporios where we could observe people fishing in the shallow waters of the bay.

Chios Island Emporios and Mavri Volia Beach

Mastic villages

Drive south and you’ll find the mastic heartland – medieval villages like Pyrgi, Olimpi, and Kalamoti, each with a unique character. Pyrgi is famous for its black-and-white geometric house façades, Olimpi hides winding alleys (where it’s not hard to get lost, but it was one of those nice confusions, and Kalamoti offers an immersive “musical walk” experience that blends tradition, storytelling, and song.

All of the mastic villages have their unique charm and wonderful sweet mastic aroma of the fields around them, but we suggest trying to visit when there’s a music festival happening around. The village of Kalamoti was like an acoustic fairytale of voices, instruments, songs, speeches, and magical locations that we needed to find for another mesmerizing performance.

Karfas Beach

Just south of Chios Town, Karfas is the island’s go-to beach for golden sand and shallow, warm waters. It’s lively but never overwhelming (especially on a Monday), with sunbeds, beach bars, a free area, and plenty of space to swim or simply float the day away. Perfect for a lazy morning dip or an all-day seaside hangout.

Chios Island Karfas Beach

Nea Moni Monastery and Anavatos

Nea Moni is a UNESCO-listed monastery with golden mosaics that shine even in dim light. The views from the monastery yard are just wonderful. Although we couldn’t help but notice that earlier that year, wildfires almost reached the monastery, leaving a devastating scenery around.

Not far away, Anavatos clings to a rocky hilltop – a haunting, deserted stone village that feels frozen in time. This village is best seen from above. If you go midday, keep in mind there aren’t many spots with shade to hide under.

Chios Mastic Museum

An excellent stop to understand the island’s unique mastic resin, this museum blends interactive exhibits with the natural beauty of the surrounding groves. We lost track of time in the museum. We left with a whole new appreciation for the “tears of Chios” and some of them as a memento we grabbed in the shop.

Chios Island Mastic Museum

Elinta, Trachili, and Lithi Beaches

These western coast gems each have their own personality. Elinta is wild and remote, still reachable by car. Trachili is small and serene, but you have to hike the last few hundred meters to get there. 

Lithi offers a charming fishing village feel with calm, shallow waters perfect for long swims in between bites in the nearby tavernas. 

Restaurants and food spots

Chios is a culinary treat, from seafood tavernas to rustic village kitchens. We dined on fusion cuisine at Kouroumpelo (Chios Town), had lunch by the water T’ageri (Lagkada), enjoyed a slow evening at Ο Καφενές του Γιώργη in Pitios, and savored traditional flavors at Kato Porta (Olimpi village), To Kountouroudi (Chios Town). Fresh fish, the famous handmade pasta, and local mastic-infused desserts can turn every meal into a highlight of your trip.

Our Chios itinerary

Our itinerary took us 4 full days and one evening, so we think those places we mentioned are good for both a 4-day and a 5-day itinerary on the island.

Day 1

Arrival in Chios Town, evening stroll through its lively center, and a delicious dinner at Kouroumpelo to kick things off.

Day 2

Morning swim at Glaroi Beach, a quick pass by Nagos Beach, and a stop in Ampelos for a bit of drone fun, followed by a flight over the sailboats in Marmara. Late lunch in Lakgada (at T’ageri), then a magical evening concert in Pitios, featuring folklore music and traditional instruments from the region, as well as traditional dance from the village and from Lesbos Island.

Day 3

Beach-hopping extravaganza: sunbathe and swim on Komi, visit Emporios, and the famous Mavri Volia. Along the way, we explored mastic groves, hunted for Remokastro by drone, and returned to Pitios for pasta at Ο Καφενές του Γιώργη before catching the Chios-born Pantelis Thalassinos live in an exciting evening.

Day 4

A relaxing morning at Karfas Beach, a fascinating stop at the Chios Mastic Museum, and an afternoon wandering Pyrgi village. The evening was pure magic with the Kalamoti Musical Walk, followed by dinner in Kato Porta, Olimpi village.

Day 5

Culture and coastline day: Nea Moni Monastery, the ghost-like village of Anavatos, Elinta and Trachili beaches, plus an afternoon swim at Lithi. More mastic grove and trees filming, then a concert at N. Plastiras Square in Chios Town with the Mikis Theodorakis Orchestra, and dinner at To Kountouroudi.

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Practical Details

Getting there

From Athens and Thessaloniki, you can fly directly to Chios in just under an hour or take a ferry (17 hours from Thessaloniki and 7-8 hours from Athens). If you’re coming from Turkiye, there are ferries from Çeşme to Chios Town in about 30 minutes.

Getting around

A rental car is a must if you want to see the island beyond Chios Town. Roads are generally good, but be ready for some narrow mountain passes and dirt roads that take you to some of the best beaches.

We used DiscoverCars.com and were happy with the car and how it handled almost 700 km of roads on Chios.

Chios Island mastic drops on a tree

Accommodation

Chios offers everything from boutique hotels in the heart of Chios Town to seaside apartments in smaller villages. Book ahead in summer – the island fills up with Greek and Turkish holidaymakers in July and August.

We booked just a couple of days before, and there were options in stone houses in the medieval villages, apartments on the western part, and even a flat in a quiet neighborhood of Chios Town.

Chios is not the kind of island you visit once. It lingers – in the taste of mastic-flavored sweets, in the sound of live music echoing through a medieval square, in the drone shots that make you swear you’ll return. We came for the beaches and the history, but left with something far richer: a string of moments stitched together into a memory of different corners of the island that already feels like home.

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