“This country is not a happy place”, “It’s beautiful but dangerous”, “Don’t go there, they will rob you” – those are just a part of what people told us about El Salvador. We were making our way to this country while crossing Mexico, Belize, and Guatemala. Having no online popularity and bad media appearance (we searched El Salvador blogs for hours and hours), we needed a little more reassurance so we wouldn’t have to do what most of the travelers around Central America do – skip it. We wanted to believe all the stuff that is said about El Salvador is simply not true.
By the end of this post, you will see for yourselves that El Salvador is actually well-worth visiting and all the bad media and nay-sayers need to apologize, immediately!
And here is our way of correcting a travel wrong, here is our article with all the highlights from El Salvador!
To visit or not to visit
El Salvador’s online presence is not the most appealing one, definitely not so attractive to potential visitors. On the contrary, our Lonely Planet guidebook was revealing the country’s beauties and urging us to give
it a try. We decided to ask around and every person we talked to about it said it’s not a good idea to go there. But there was this one important thing – none of these people had actually visited El Salvador, ever.
You know we have a special thing about non-firsthand information. It’s just so unfair to multiply a piece of information just like that because everyone says so. We still found blogs of people who actually visited El Salvador and who reassured us everything will be OK. Like Sheena and her very cool guide to El Salvador.
At the same time, we tried to contact a few tour agencies for private tour options. We thought at least we’ll be safer that way, even though we’d lose some of the authenticity and a ton of money. We even contacted locals through Couchsurfing, some of them claiming they’re working to fix the country’s bad reputation. Guess what – no response at all. It took the only agency that replied two weeks to send the quotes and there were not about the service requested at all.
With all those ups and downs, we still decided to give El Salvador a try. Later we would learn that some people are actively working towards making the country an attractive tourism destination. But hey people, start with answering your emails and putting together a few blog posts on El Salvador in English! This is friendly advice, so follow it for the sake of any common sense!
Proud volcanos (both active and inactive), pristine lakes, dramatic Pacific coast, happy villages, friendly locals and huge potential – this is the region of El Salvador!
Compared to its neighbors – Guatemala, Honduras, and the Pacific Ocean – it looks tiny, but we all know that great things often come in small boxes. So let’s find out if this is the case with El Salvador.
Our itinerary in El Salvador
El Tunco and Costa del Bálsamo made the most sense to start with. El Tunco is a beach surfing paradise with tremendous amounts of security everywhere – every hotel, bar, and supermarket is guarded by armed security. There is a barrier or two to cross if you want to enter the village. I don’t know if locals can access it easily, but I guess that’s the point – to be protected by locals with bad intentions.
It was like entering another country inside the country. We really enjoyed the views, the sunset, and the chill atmosphere of El Tunco. We knew it has extra security but still, it felt incredibly good to be in El Salvador. Initially, we planned to stay just one night as we were not about to surf, but then the huge rain next day changed our minds, so we decided to stay for one more night.
We relaxed on the porch of our room, ate tremendous amounts of the tasty pupusas, and did some blogging work (at least we had to try to make up and write one ore more El Salvador blogs). The Internet was a Speedy Gonzales compared to Mexico, Belize, and Guatemala. We also arranged a tour by car to Ruta de las Flores. With some local guys who also had a campsite and a lovely pupuseria.
Ruta de las Flores
One of the highlights of the country, Ruta de las Flores goes through volcanoes, mountains, and spectacular views. Different villages on the route reveal how locals live, their traditions, and the history of the country.
We could use public transportation to do Ruta del Flores, but to reach first of the villages we had to change three chicken buses and that would be too much after the super long and tiring shuttle from Antigua to El Tunco. Going by car would save a lot of time but not money, and maybe we still needed someone with us to make us feel safer.
So we drove with the jeep and our local guide and driver Daniel. We would constantly ask him about the way of life, places, and traditions and we figured that El Salvador is a place like everyplace else. I mean people still go to school, work, still have fun (which we were absolutely convinced of later), have dreams. People in villages and roads we passed were pretty much carried away in daily activities, no bandits were jumping out of bushes to rob anyone.
There was some active police presence in some viewpoints (miradores) but that usually helps us feel even better. So we said goodbye to dramatic views over the Pacific Ocean and said hello to lush greenery and majestic volcanoes.
The first village we stopped was Nahuizalco. It was a nice Sunday and we wandered around the fresh produce market. What a great variety of fruits and veggies! The offers were so tempting and the sun so scorching that we had to head soon to the covered artisanal market and the small history museum.
El Salvador was in civil war until not so long ago! Some of the visitors still enjoy debating with locals which side was right. We’re actually mesmerized by the speed of recovery. Not many places could look so well only a quarter of a century later. So no talks on war here, just a thumbs up for the peaceful recovery.
When we reached the village of Juayua we were already acquainted with its weekend gastronomy festival. Although we are still not sure if we hit the festival or just a regular weekend culinary feast, we can say one thing. Just eat in El Salvador! There is no shortage of tasty and fresh food there! And it’s cheap, and it’s amazing! And it’s cooked right in front of you, accompanied by live music! The video below includes some hearty dishes and lots of salivating!
Chorros de la Calera
While digesting we took a crazy off-road tuk-tuk ride to a complex of waterfalls named Chorros de la Calera. We couldn’t quite get why we should take a tuk-tuk and not the jeep until we had to survive a super bumpy dirt road leading to the waterfalls. It was an adventure itself and cost only 3 dollars.
We hiked a bit to get to the first waterfall. Dozens of teenagers were taking a dip in the nice pools below them. There was a hidden channel to swim to the next pool and waterfall. The water was chilly so we decided to walk instead. Nice refreshment from the heat and time to mentally prepare for the ride back to the village.
Apaneca was the place to really absorb views and relax with an ice-cream. Most of the houses had facades in different colors, some of them with amazing paintings and art on top. The church contrasted to all the colors, being shiny white.
We took a stroll around the center, contemplated the distant hills, and tasted what everyone around seemed to taste – a local flavor of sorbet ice-cream. We seriously started to wonder if that day could become any better.
Our final destination of Ruta de las Flores was Ataco. We could easily see the festive Sunday mood by just entering the village. Streets were full of people, artisanal stalls everywhere, noises of any kind.
It was just a regular Sunday, but we’ve seen many carnivals and festivals less exciting than what we were part of in Ataco. Costumes and masks, crazy street dance, giant bride and groom, this was just the beginning. Smiles and joy around, how could we even think El Salvador is no good for visiting?
And on top of all, this show was made by and for the locals. It was not a special program for tourists. And yes, the tourists were a minority there.
Our energy levels were getting down from the intense day so we stopped for a coffee (it’s one of the world’s best!!!) and then went shopping for a tasty dinner in the quiet hostel.
Here’s a nice detailed guide to Ruta de las Flores, whether you decide to do it on your own, or with an organized tour, or get a local to drive you around.
The next day we were determined that we’d use public transport to get to our next place – Santa Ana. Public transport is sometimes said to be avoided in “dangerous” countries but we felt like we should give it a try and save tons of money. We had to change once and the whole ride took us less than 2 dollars per person to get to Santa Ana. Every time they gave us receipts and we never felt cheated. Unlike the guy who cheated us and got a proper propina during the ride between Chichen Itza and Ik Kil cenote in Mexico.
The only thing about riding cheap and colorful chicken buses in Central America is that they take an incredibly huge amount of time. A bus would also stop to pick up passengers, drop passengers or to pick up and drop off sellers of anything you might need during a short or long bus ride. So even a distance of 60 kilometers can easily take 2 hours but that’s 2 hours of experiencing local life.
Santa Ana welcomed us with a never-ending street market. Well, it ended a bit before our hostel. It was so hot but we still headed out to look around the center. The cathedral and the theater are the two most beautiful buildings in town, amongst the most beautiful in the country and the whole of Central America.
We visited the tourist center so they told us how to DIY visit Santa Ana volcano. They sent us to look for a travel agency to arrange our transfer to Honduras. To shorten the story, it’s kind of impossible to arrange a shuttle on a random day to Copan Ruins in Honduras. First, agencies are totally clueless and not talking to each other. Second, there is just one hostel with one driver offering transport three times a week. You have to either chat on Facebook with a guy or be in the hostel.
The situation was getting a little annoying. So we shared our problem with the guys in our hostel and they offered to ride us in their car for the same price for the day we wanted. It was like a big win for us and they ventured abroad to visit the Copan ruins town.
Santa Ana at night is best to be avoided. Walking in some areas is walking in ghost streets, and there might be some bad people on a quest for your cash or cell phone. That’s advice from locals, they also don’t wander the streets in some areas after dark.
Santa Ana volcano
Santa Ana volcano inspired one of the active volcanoes in Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s famous novella The Little Prince. He had a Salvadoran wife Consuelo who is the inspiration behind The Rose.
We were advised by even the local tourist information office to do this trip alone. So if you have a whole day free and your volcano-lust is calling, here is the recipe to DIY volcano Santa Ana.
- chicken bus 7.40 a.m. – 0.9 USD
- Cerro Verde park entrance fee – 3 USD
- guide plus police officer – 1 USD – for your own protection from potentially getting lost or robbed
- volcano entrance fee – 6 USD
- chicken bus back to Santa Ana at 4 p.m. (potential change of buses required, stay alert) – 0.9 USD
- pupusa 0.5 USD, breakfast plate 1.5 USD
- Visited October 2017
The bus ride takes 2 – 2.5 hours and is bumpy and crazy. The hike through the park forest and the volcano takes about 2 hours, the way down to Tibet point is 1.5h. Bus passes from there but you need to raise your hand to stop it. All the prices are per person. The volcano and all the views are totally worth the hike and the 14 USD you will spend the whole day. An advice from us – just take in views and fresh air and let go! Everything has its own pace there so don’t try to rush things and you’ll be amazed by the experience and the day!
Time to go
It was a little road trip from Santa Ana to Copan Ruinas (the name of the town is Copan ruins, ruins are named Archaeological park). We stocked up with pupusas, sweets, and magnets and almost forgot to report to immigration in Guatemala. Borders were so silent and chill that one could easily just travel from El Salvador to Honduras through Guatemala without being noticed.
We still reported at all borders and immigration and had fun reading the Cyrillic letter on our passports. We also discussed how El Salvador could improve its online presence and attract travelers as it doesn’t fall below the qualities of any country in the area. Hope our feedback helped and ES will shine with its positive examples and happy stories.
All the Salvadorans we met were very friendly, nice and helpful. Nobody was trying to rip us off, which was a relief after Guatemala. We would gladly spend time talking with strangers and acquaintances in ES, there is so much to learn about real life and the real situation in the country.
We’re amazed by how people are trying to make the country a desirable tourist location, or just a place not to be skipped in any itinerary in Central America. Kudos and we’ll be helping this thing to happen faster as much as we can!
- The nature in El Salvador is more than tempting for every curious traveler. A tiny country with so many gems, sometimes the smaller, the better!
- Life in villages is more than happy. It’s authentic and thrilling, you should become part of it to know you love it!
- People are some of the most authentic and friendly we’ve met in our travels. Definitely worth more respect and need to receive more guests from all over the world to appreciate their beautiful country!
So did we change your opinion about El Salvador? Would you give it a visit? Can it become an amazing destination in its own right someday?